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Finished this rack up today.

Came in well after deer season was over.

Harvested in Springfield area.

. Hunter wanted this done up the same way as his last in 95 with a deer foot.

Deer foot was from the same deer that provided the antlers.
 

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Haven't done a euro since 2011. It was the first pic in this thread .
Local guy in Springfield was watching this deer during season. Thought it was too small to harvest . BUT his wife didn't think so. No too bad a deer for her first. Since it was her first he though a euro would be nice. Started to work on it and ended up in behind the shed til last week he dropped it off. Was in rough shape with all the meat dried hard as nails.But with my persistence and knowledge was able to pull it off. Will let it dry for a week in the sun and recoat the antlers to get rid of the sun fading.
 

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So I get a call at 1930 Tuesday night from a 2 X bear rug client. Steven I got a bear down. He's in Truro . Can I drop it off tomorrow. Sure . What time . Thinking 630 am as I need to be back at work Dartmouth for 830. Let me know if you want to hang your meat in the cooler as its going to be too warm to hang a bear in a garage today. Skin the bear and lay the hide out flat . Drop fold it. OK text me as you go.

415 am text on the road. 545 am I turn on Cool Bot for cooler. Gets here at 620 am Cooler at 6 degrees. Hang the 2 pieces . Talk about the hunt drop off the hide . . Off to work he goes. Off to work i go I was surprised as to how warm the head still was after 11 hrs . First thing I think is the ears are going to slip. Skin out the head and slip a couple ice packs in the head skin as I worked on the feet.. By 11am all done and ready to salt. This wasn't the biggest bear on the planet but she was ready for winter with easily 4 " of fat on the back.. Client mentioned he took a 5 gallon bucket off the meat also.
Just checked cooler . meat was at 3.6 C.
One break for client is my wife is heading to CB on Sunday . so saturday I will butcher and wrap the bear . Drop off in Truro again next day.
 

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Ive got a few new hunters who want work done if theyre successful. One bear, one deer.
They are very impressed with what you have done for me, still waiting for that squirrel lol
 

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Tim....depending on the new hunters success and my success if getting work will depend on your success of maybe getting a squirrel . Lets hope we are all VERY successfull
 

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How to skin a bear for a 1/2 , 3/4 or life size mount

After the shot or arrow release when the bear is down. The proper handling of your trophy starts NOW. What you do and how you handle the harvest will greatly affect the outcome of quality of meat and taxidermy product.

Best not to gut the animal up the belly if your very close to home and can get there very quickly. If you can get home without a belly gutting proceed to next paragraph. If not then immediately after you recover your bear the animal must be gutted so the interior of the animal can cool. As soon as the bear has died this is when bacteria starts to form that will ruin the meat and cause hair to slip. Cooling of the hide and carcass must be done ASAP. I will not go into how to gut a bear but one very important part is the cut should be centered between the vent and center of the chest. It should also be straight.

Skinning for a mount like these I find to be the easiest. Lay bear on its belly arms to the sides legs straight back. Insert knife at the base of the tail and cut straight up the back bone . Stop the cut between the ears. Continue to skin work down the sides until they meet in the belly center. For the tail bone just cut it off leaving the bone inside the tail. Since the cut is so far up the head it makes cutting the neck very easy to reach.

When skinning the arms just tube skin them down to the wrist. then cut them off. Hardest part of the skinning is getting to the paws to cut the bone . Paws are left attached to the skin.

A few pointers.

If you plan to store in a freezer for a long period of time, store fur side out to slow down freezer burn. Freezer burn is the removal of moisture . If it stays there too long just throw it out as it will almost be mummified. And will not be able to be rehydrated. Most of my bear hides never see the freezer. They go from hide prep to salting into tanning solution. This way the freeze thaw bacteria doesn’t get a chance.

If you do not flesh your hide DO NOT SALT IT. Freeze or cool and get it to a taxidermist.

Where hunters loose out of bear rug size is if the cuts are not straight and centered as the taxidermist will trim the hide after it’s tanned and dry to form a symmetrical shape on both sides. A 4” cut off of center line belly cut gets an 8” narrower hide between the front and rear legs.

So to recap……

Remove the hide ASAP and cool.

Do not freeze in a ball

Remember YOUR prep will result in a better mount.
 

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How to skin a bear for a taxidermy rug.

After the shot or arrow release when the bear is down. The proper handling of your trophy starts NOW. What you do and how you handle the harvest will greatly effect the outcome of quality of meat and taxidermy product.

Immediately after you recover your bear the animal must be gutted so the interior of the animal can cool. As soon as the bear has died this is when bacteria starts to form that will ruin the meat and cause hair to slip. Cooling of the hide and carcass must be done ASAP. I will not go into how to gut a bear but one very important part is the cut should be centered between the vent and center of the chest. It should also be straight.

For a rug

This is what I like to do.

Lay bear on its back with a hand, brush hair in a normal direction from throat to knife incision from gutting. Now run a finger in straight line from the knife incision towards the throat and stop centered between the hinge point of the lower jaw. This will leave a line in the fur. If your line in the fur is not correct just rebrush and try again. Your initial cut will extend from the vent and stop centered on the throat even with the hinge point of the lower jaw.

Rear legs

Start at the ankle and make a line again with your finger from the ankle to the vent. Should be straight and run centered on the back of the leg. There is a line to follow as best you can. It’s where the long hair meets the short hair.

Pads

For a rug the pads on the paws are not required. Cut around the pad and skin down to the last knuckle removing all the finger bones. Claws should remain attached to the hide. The skin on the paw should be removed like a doctor removes a latex glove peeled back inside out. After the claws are cut reinvert to normal. You may be surprised as how similar a skinned bear paw resembles a human hand. Fingers bones can be cut from the hand to assist with the skinning. Easiest to skin a finger on the outside edge and then do the other outside. Just makes a little more room to work

Front legs.

If the front legs are skinned correctly this is where you can make up square footage on a pelt. This may be difficult to understand. If you pull the arm straight and cut from the wrist straight to the center line belly cut the hide will form a flap of skin after its has been skinned that extends outwards between the bears thumb and head in the armpit area. After the bear is dried this flap is just cut off during the shaping process. If you can get the cut to form a flap of skin between the front leg and the rear leg in the armpit area, this can be sewed to the arm from the armpit to the elbow area increasing the look and size of your trophy.

Ok how to do this. Again draw a line with your finger from the wrist to the center belly cut line. Cut from wrist to the elbow area and stop. Now redraw a line from your elbow cut towards the lower jaw and bisect about 4”-12” above the imaginary straight line depending on the size of bear. For a 200 lb bear about 6-8 ” make a good flap. Make sure that both upward angle cuts on the front legs are even and cross the center line belly cut at the same spot.. Now if can visualize this, the large flap will fold down towards the armpit located between the front and rear legs.



Head

Cut as close to the skull as you can especially in the eye and ear area.

If you don’t feel comfortable to skin the paws and head just cut off at the wrist and base of skull. But here is where the bacteria problem lies. When the hide is frozen with the skull inside (normally In a large ball of fur) the skull is the last to freeze . It may be 2 or 3 days before its frozen. The bacteria is still growing until its frozen. After the hide is removed from the freezer the ears will thaw before the head can be skinned normally about 1-2 days. Now the bacteria is working on the ear hair and will almost always slip( bald spot). The eye area is also very bad for slippage. So if you don’t skin the head DO NOT ball up and drop in a garbage bag and freeze. Lay it out so it’s flat and thin as possible so thaw time is ASAP. I like to place fur side in so the leather will not be insulated by the fur as to ensure a quick thaw.

A few pointers.

If you plan to store in a freezer for a long period of time, store fur side out to slow down freezer burn. Freezer burn is the removal of moisture . If it stays there too long just throw it out as it will almost be mummified. And will not be able to be rehydrated. Most of my bear hides never see the freezer. They go from hide prep to salting into tanning solution. This way the freeze thaw bacteria doesn’t get a chance.

If you do not flesh your hide DO NOT SALT IT. Freeze or cool and get it to a taxidermist.

Where hunters loose out of bear rug size is if the cuts are not straight and centered as the taxidermist will trim the hide after it’s tanned and dry to form a symmetrical shape on both sides. A 4” cut off of center line belly cut gets an 8” narrower hide between the front and rear legs.

So to recap……

Remove the hide ASAP and cool.

Do not freeze in a ball

Remember YOUR prep will result in a better mount.
 

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Bear pickle is going as planned. 2 more days til the hide is shaved thinner. Bear all butchered and back in Truro.
 

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Some one sent me a PM about taxidermy and a business licence. I got the email on my phone but its not here so I cant reply. Try again if need be.
 

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Not sure where the start of this conversation is but here is the bull penis walking stick I was working on a since Xmas . Lots of time it was in freezer. . Its one piece and about 48" long. It was a learning piece. Should have another one before long as his starting to piss me off by mooing all day..
Needs a few more coats of sealer and then a sanding to knock off the rough spots.

All our female guests we have over I get them to hold it and guess whats it made from.

When I tell them ...... I tell them Remember the biggest penis you've held in your hands was HERE at my house.
LOL
 

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Not sure where the start of this conversation is but here is the bull penis walking stick I was working on a since Xmas . Lots of time it was in freezer. . Its one piece and about 48" long. It was a learning piece. Should have another one before long as his starting to piss me off by mooing all day..
Needs a few more coats of sealer and then a sanding to knock off the rough spots.

All our female guests we have over I get them to hold it and guess whats it made from.

When I tell them ...... I tell them Remember the biggest penis you've held in your hands was HERE at my house.
LOL
We talked about this some time ago
Nice job
Take care
 
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