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I honestly don’t know what the bases are. They were on the rifle when I bought it. I bought the scope second hand off Gunpost, and the rings were attached to It. Scope looked to be brand new. I only paid $50 for it, so no big loss if it is no good. Maybe there was a reason it was on Gunpost.
Take it all apart and do it properly as I indicated before, with the level check at each addition of base, rings, and then scope. Then you will know if something is adding an inclination where it should have been level with the firearm. If the rings or base are adding a tilt, then you'll know it's not the scope. Do your geometry.
 

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I do have a laser bore slighter. I have mounted dozens of scopes over the year. Never had an issue until today.
I honestly don’t know what the bases are. They were on the rifle when I bought it. I bought the scope second hand off Gunpost, and the rings were attached to It. Scope looked to be brand new. I only paid $50 for it, so no big loss if it is no good. Maybe there was a reason it was on Gunpost.
I will not buy a second hand scope. At the range this am with a new scope I bumped last year. People thought it could be re set, nope, she is feked. One could post on GP as it is new with no marks. Nope, but many will. You have a problem with not enough adjustment. Even though the scope you have is unknown, I really doubt the only problem you would have is not enough adjustment down on a bad scope. Just mirror it and count the clicks. I think the normal scope has about 140 clicks, all the way up to all the way down. Split the difference for zero. My problem was I needed more than that, like 90. It was the first firearm that I ran across like this, even with the supposedly proper mounts. Winchesters have no way to really shim, plus if one was to shim then you would probably need the scope mounts lapped. When I put my scope (scopes) on the receiver I noticed they all had a slight tip upwards. My guess is you do not have the proper mounting.
 

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20 feet for those two axis's to align isn't far enuff ! You'll need more distance than that ! 25 yds minimum
Well I just followed the instructions that came with my 30 cal laser bore sighter and with a 3006 all you need is 24 feet. I lazer boresight all my new scopes in my basement before I go to the range. Gets you shooting on the target ,then fine tuning done at range. If you bore sight a rifle actually looking down the bore with the human eye then yes you need 25 yards.
My reason for asking was to actually see if in fact the cross hairs in Buckmark’s scope could physically move to meet the red laser dot at the required distance as per instructions for the lazer bore sighter for the caliber of his rifle.
 

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I have 3 laser sighters and none of mine had those instructions with them. Different maker I guess. I also bore sight,,but I use the Bushnell Pro with the 100 yd 12 x 12 inch grid reticule. I've had to pull the bolt on more than one occasion and do it eye manual @ 100 yds !
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I did count the clicks. 312. Divided that by 2 and it’s 156. That seemed like a lot of clicks.… but that‘s what it was. Did it for horizontal and vertical. Put my laser bore slighter in and it was high, but pretty much right on, left to right. As far as I know … there are no plans to hunt with it this year, or maybe ever.… so I have lots of time. I will take it all apart and start over. The bases look like they are made to fit a 99. Like I said … I mounted a lot of scopes over the years with no problems, but this one has me baffled.
 

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The bases sure look correct !
 

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Every now and then the rods in some scopes stick. Any adjustments I do, I ALWAYS give my scope a good bump with a closed fist...just to make sure nothing's sticking. If the scope can;t handle that...it has no place on ANY of my rifles.

BM...couple things you can do...did you try....set up your rig in a gun rest (I'm presuming you have one for working on guns) make a mark across the room on a pc of paper on the wall.....move the rig and site the cross hairs on that mark...turn on your laser sighter...note that laser mark on the paper with a pen or marker...give the scope a few hard knocks with your fist / palm (( stop at first signs of blood) then put your + back on the original mark...then check to see if your lasers POI has changed.

new pc of paper ...while your guns in the solid rest...mark you spot for your cross hairs AND your laser dot on the paper.
adjust the windage 10 clicks right...make a dot on the paper..adjust the elevation down 10 clicks...make a dot on the paper...adjust the windage left 10 clicks...make a dot on the paper...lastly, adjust the elevation UP 10 clicks.
you can keep you laser dot on the original mark on the paper as you do this...you should wind up with a small box if the rods and springs are working properly.
 

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just a few things I've done in the past to get rid of a few possibilities.
 

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Ohh...instead of counting all the clicks next time...tighten the windage / elevation adjustments all the way in...count the revolutions all the way out...7 1/2...8 ?...just go back in half way...if the turrets were never taken apart and readjusted...the ZERO hache mark should be real close to the original setting marks...if so, move it to that point.
 

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I did count the clicks. 312. Divided that by 2 and it’s 156. That seemed like a lot of clicks.… but that‘s what it was. Did it for horizontal and vertical. Put my laser bore slighter in and it was high, but pretty much right on, left to right. As far as I know … there are no plans to hunt with it this year, or maybe ever.… so I have lots of time. I will take it all apart and start over. The bases look like they are made to fit a 99. Like I said … I mounted a lot of scopes over the years with no problems, but this one has me baffled.
312? Fek never seen that on a scope ever. Not sure that makes sense? When you lay your scope in the mounts does it appear to lay flush, not rocking? Seen uneven mounts when tightened will not all the adjustment to work. 312 does not seem right to me? I could like I said earlier not find a scope with over 150 clicks local. Maybe I am mixed up but don't recall that many on any scope I have.
 

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Just something that came to mind when I had something similar rings are not lapped heavy are they?? bases mounted backwards??
Also like thunderstick said 312 I have never seen anything even close to that
 

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Ok … so I have an issue that I have never had in my life. I mounted a scope on a rifle I acquired. I have mounted many scopes in my lifetime. Had it to the range today. It’s shooting about 8 inches high at 100 yards. My problem is … I have run out of “down clicks”. Is this a scope issue, mount or both ?? Can I shim the back mount to Make it shoot lower ?? The scope is a fairly new Weaver. I don’t want to buy a new scope if I don’t have to.
*No, shimming rear base will make your rifle shoot higher, not lower. * You should have #14 rear and #19 front bases. That pair of bases will be level on any 99. Shimming should not be required at normal ranges. With a Leup magnetic bore sighter you can tell if scope is tracking OK in a cradle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Thanks 7mmBR. I did come across that piece of information as I was searching. I zero’d the scope (using the click method). I will make sure it is perfectly level and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I have never tried the mirror thing. Never heard of it to be honest. I will check into it.
 

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It is a Savage 99. My last one had see thru mounts. It was deadly. This one has low mounts. So low, that when the scope is on low power (3x) … I can see the front sight in the scope. That’s what makes me think it might be a scope issue.
I have a model 99 300 Savage with a Vortex scope. I ordered a Weaver rail from a supplier in the USA and have good quality Vortex mounts. Had it to the range a few weeks back, put 3 shots in a 1'' group at 50 yards, that works for me. Issue I had with the old weaver mounts was they are so far apart that the scope just fits, no room for moving the scope fwd or back, hence the weaver (picatinny) rail. Also, when I had the old weaver 2 piece mounts on it, the bell from a 3x9x40 scope would almost hit the back sight and, at low power, you could see the front sight. The Weaver rail allows for room for scope adjustment and it looks decent also. Another option is to buy high profile mounts, I think you can get them off Amazon.
 

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I have a model 99 300 Savage with a Vortex scope. I ordered a Weaver rail from a supplier in the USA and have good quality Vortex mounts. Had it to the range a few weeks back, put 3 shots in a 1'' group at 50 yards, that works for me. Issue I had with the old weaver mounts was they are so far apart that the scope just fits, no room for moving the scope fwd or back, hence the weaver (picatinny) rail. Also, when I had the old weaver 2 piece mounts on it, the bell from a 3x9x40 scope would almost hit the back sight and, at low power, you could see the front sight. The Weaver rail allows for room for scope adjustment and it looks decent also. Another option is to buy high profile mounts, I think you can get them off Amazon.
This rail sounds like the way to go. Now you have the ability to adjust for proper eye relief. So how low can you mount your 3x9 x40 scope behind the open sites with the rail system. Do med rings work? I did not like my sav 99 with see Thur rings as it they did not allow proper check weld. I like my scope as low as possible. Would it be possible to see a pic of your set up? Thanks
 

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Multi slot / picatinny rails are good in lots of applications for gaining much needed PROPER EYE RELIEF !!
L/A bolt Savage's...Browning's and Howa's are just a few that immediately come to mind.
I see LOTS of people crawling up over the stock to try and get it (eye relief) to open up and get the FO view that's supposed to be there when you shoulder the rifle the first time !.
 

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Multi slot / picatinny rails are good in lots of applications for gaining much needed PROPER EYE RELIEF !!
L/A bolt Savage's...Browning's and Howa's are just a few that immediately come to mind.
I see LOTS of people crawling up over the stock to try and get it (eye relief) to open up and get the FO view that's supposed to be there when you shoulder the rifle the first time !.
Agreed. When I shoulder my hunting rifle and open my eyes, my cheek is welded on the stock riser and the cross hairs are at eye level with full objective view.
 
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