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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to stop a hairline crack from get worst on the butt stock of an old shotgun. The crack of course is in the right hand corner of the wood where the receiver tang meets the wood . It is too fine to spread open and their is not a lot of wood to drill a hole and insert a small dowel. I would like to try and find a glue that is thin enough to wick into the crack and not cause any damage to the finish. Any ideas or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks
 

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Agra-glass bedding compound would be my first choice. Orrr...a clear Two part epoxy (syringe type..LePages )

Any way to put a small drill bit in the wood right there in the seam between the cracks ...size of a tooth pick ?

If you can drill a small hole in and along the seam (but hidden...then mix some glass (epoxy) and coat the tooth pick and push into the hole. ((( Pre fit your tooth pick first before you finalize the job)))

......or take a dental pick and hi lite (expose) the crack more.. dig it out a bit along its length...cross the crack in a few places too..that'll give the glass some "tooth" to hang onto. It can be dyed to match the stock color...and you can add some sanding dust to it also . ..ie..walnut..ebony..maple..

sometimes I take a small ball bit (dremel) and put a stop hole at the end of the crack...then I do my epoxy, tooth pick, gouge out the crack, dye the filler job ...IF that's what it takes
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I want to stop a hairline crack from get worst on the butt stock of an old shotgun. The crack of course is in the right hand corner of the wood where the receiver tang meets the wood . It is too fine to spread open and their is not a lot of wood to drill a hole and insert a small dowel. I would like to try and find a glue that is thin enough to wick into the crack and not cause any damage to the finish. Any ideas or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks
I would need to drill the small hole on a diagonal from top but the angle needed to follow the crack would not allow me to go very deep. I will take a closer look and see what is possible. Thanks
 

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you did take the stock off ..yes ??
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
you did take the stock off ..yes ??
Yes the stock is off. The crack starts at the top inside right hand corner where the receiver tang meets the wood and travels about 1 1/2" down the top side from the corner. It is difficult to get a drill bit in between the tang wood to drill a small hole that would follow the crack .Also, I do not want to chance that it may come away from the stock. Just a difficult spot to work. No doubt the crack has exposure to stock oil etc so difficult to glue up.
 

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What make and model is the gun?? Maybe one of us old guys has a stock kicking around

Cheers
 

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X2 on the acraglas. I have used it successfully on a tang crack. If you go epoxy, don't use the quick curing stuff. I hear superglue is effective on stock cracks as well. I bought syringes from Lee valley.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited by Moderator)
My research today online suggests Bob Smith Industries C.A. Type glue with wicking capabilities . Apparently the stuff is thinner than water and penetrates the entire inside surface of the hairline crack. However, it cures super fast and causes a mess on the the stock if your not careful. The online debate is whether or not this fix will tolerate recoil.
 

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Water proof, gorilla glue. It expands, and is invisable, tremendous strength. It is also one of the only glues for the outdoor elements. Used to use it on sign making, and have used it on a gun stock where one could not find the crack when finished.
 

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My research today online suggests Bob Smith Industries C.A. Type glue with wicking capabilities . Apparently the stuff is thinner than water and penetrates the entire inside surface of the hairline crack. However, it cures super fast and causes a mess on the the stock if your not careful. The online debate is whether or not this fix will tolerate recoil.
I have used the Bob Smith CA glue in other hobbies and it is a very good quality glue and very thin.
 

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be careful with certain gorilla glues..some is water activated and will show a yellow layer (looks like hi density expansion foam when cured)

I've seen it...its fugly on gunstocks
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Is Brownell's the only place to order Acraglas from or is their a Canadian supplier. ?
 

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be careful with certain gorilla glues..some is water activated and will show a yellow layer (looks like hi density expansion foam when cured)

I've seen it...its fugly on gunstocks
I have been making wood signs over the years. Gorrilla is one of the best on the market for it water proof abilities and strength. Always used the water activated, it expands and creeps into seams. One of the reasons I used it was it did not leave any visible yellowing as you mentioned when joining wood. I used it on a crack gun stock, and the finish job was invisable. There is even newer stuff on the market not water activated. You must have been filling 1/2 inch gap
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My research today online suggests Bob Smith Industries C.A. Type glue with wicking capabilities . Apparently the stuff is thinner than water and penetrates the entire inside surface of the hairline crack. However, it cures super fast and causes a mess on the the stock if your not careful. The online debate is whether or not this fix will tolerate recoil.
Cooey 84 stock on gun post $40.00 same as new
 

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be careful with certain gorilla glues..some is water activated and will show a yellow layer (looks like hi density expansion foam when cured)

I've seen it...its fugly on gunstocks
Yep that is the one I used by mistake on my glasses :( Terrible stuff
 

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Cooey 84 stock on gun post $40.00 same as new
Crack issue solved !

The key is to find the right type glue or epoxy for the right type of crack , just because one fixes one job does not mean it will work for another , ive used CA glue , Marine epoxy , gorilla glue , even two part powder marine epoxy water based and activated , small jobs require thinner glue/ epoxy while more prevelant cracks require heavier more thicker based epoxy /resin/ glue

Heres a simple tip , replicate the crack trying to fix on same type material , do a test to see what fixes that issue b4 you commit to doing the actual repair , then you know what actually works for that very issue you have . Little pre planning goes long way
 

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I have been making wood signs over the years. Gorrilla is one of the best on the market for it water proof abilities and strength. Always used the water activated, it expands and creeps into seams. One of the reasons I used it was it did not leave any visible yellowing as you mentioned when joining wood. I used it on a crack gun stock, and the finish job was invisable. There is even newer stuff on the market not water activated. You must have been filling 1/2 inch gap
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That Gorilla glue I find no good for nothing, now the black tape I find tougher than Duct tape
 
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